About Mold
Mold…Literally, a growing concern. National media attention has alerted the public to the destructive and possibly toxic dangers of hidden mold spores that could affect their family’s health and their homes. EPA studies indicate that air levels of indoor pollutants may be two to three times higher than outdoor levels. Mold, the most dangerous offender of all, often goes undetected because of its invisibility. Most people spend as much as 90% of their time indoors and are not aware of the health hazards created by this pollutant. You owe it to yourself and your family to minimize your exposure to mold spores in the indoor environment. We recommend testing for mold today!
If the home you are thinking about purchasing has mold,
do not panic! You can remove unusual mold levels from the home, and bring it back to the original condition.
NOTE: If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean the mold, but do not fix the water problem, the mold will grow back.
If the contaminated area involved is very large, you may wish to consider hiring a professional. Call us at 1-888-508-MOLD (6653).
ATTICS:
- The number one cause of attic mold growth is condensation caused by improper ventilation. Specifically undersized or inadequate soffit vents. The soffit is the area between the siding and the gutter. The opening here MUST be equal to or greater than the opening at the ridge vent.
- The number two cause is an improperly installed ridge vent.
- Number three is insulation blocking airflow from the soffit to the ridge.
- Number four is over insulation or improperly installed insulation.
- Number five is a bathroom fan or dryer exhaust venting into the attic.
- Number six is a missing staircase cover.
- Number seven is open chasses such as plumbing and electrical openings between floors. This includes fire-blocking around chimneys.
Typical attic molds would be
ALTERNARIA, CLADOSPORIUM, PENICILLIUM/ASPERGILLUS and ULOCLADIUM.
The staff at D&M company is uniquely qualified to handle your attic mold problem. We know why the mold happened in the first place. We are licenced and or certified as Home inspectors, Mold remediators, General contractors, Indoor air quality specialists, Restoration, Repair and Painting (RRP) contractor, and wood boring insect inspectors. To get what we have under one roof, you would need to hire a roofer (ridge vent), a carpenter certified as an RRP (soffit vent), an insulator (soffit vent chutes), a mold remediator (mold removal), and a painting contractor (application of anti-growth). Then you need to do it in the proper order. Soffits first., then mold , then vent chutes, and the ridge vent last. Do it right or do it twice.
Basements: Basement mold is caused by high humidity from water infiltration.
- The number one culprit is the easiest to prevent. Improperly working gutters and drainpipes.
- Number two is yard grade. The yard sloping towards the home directing water into the basement is a no-no. Slope it away and keep the dirt 8" from the siding.
- Foundation and floor cracks are at number three. These cracks also allow radon and termites to get through. Have us fix it before you list it.
- An uncovered sump pump is number four. By the way, installing a dehumidifier over an open sump pump is a lesson in futility. Common sense should also tell you not to install a sump pump under an electrical panel and never near an oil tank. I wouldn't have to mention it if I didn't see it all the time.
- And rounding out the top five is plumbing leaks, including hot water heaters, boilers, washing machines, supply pipes and drains.
Typical basement molds would be, CHAETOMIUM and
STACHYBOTRYS.
MOLD PREVENTION STEPS
- Step 1 - Eliminate Moisture
- Clean gutters and divert drainpipes away from the house
- Cut back overhanging tree branches and remove trees that are too close to the house
- Grade your yard away from the house, 1/4" to the foot for at least 10'
- Run a dehumidifier in the basement
- Vent bathroom fans to the outside
- Vent dryers to the outside
- Areas that may require professional help:
- Repair all foundation and floor cracks
- Apply waterproofing to walls and floor
- Install a sump pump and/or a French drain system
- The sump pump must have a cover
- If you have a high water table we recommend a back up generator to supply power to the sump pump as well as the major electrical systems of the house
- Step 2 - Do Not Over-Insulate Your Home
- Insulation will absorb water like a sponge
- Never insulate a damp or dirt floor basement
- When insulating the attic, do not block off soffit vents - use vent chutes
- Block off (fire block) all plumbing and electrical chasses or pathways to the attic.
- Install a cover over the attic staircase. This will prevent heat loss in the winter (upward) and heat migration (downward) in the summer
- A house that is "too tight" can actually be a health hazard. Use common sense and don't trade air quality for energy efficiency.
- Step 3 - Ventilation
- Soffits
- Rule #1 - The airflow at the soffit vent (intake) must be equal to or greater than the airflow at the exhaust ( the ridge vent)
- Typically the best application is a metal strip vent for wood soffits or fully perforated vinyl soffits for vinyl siding.
- Ridge
- Just as in soffit vents - there are different types of ridge or roof vents. We have found the best type to be the hard plastic vents with baffles that promote negative air pressure.
- Gable vents do not provide enough air flow and should be blocked when using a ridge and soffit system
- Roof vents usually do not provide a balanced exhaust
- Roll vents (cobra style - unbaffled) are usually flattened to the point of providing almost no airflow at all
- Power fans can be used in certain applications.
- Step 4 - Remediate Properly
- Engineering controls
- Use containment barriers
- Create negative air pressure and use air scrubbers in the containment area to prevent living spaces from becoming contaminated
- Step 5 - Remove Mold
- Methods could be demolition, ice blasting, chemicals and/or hand tool cleaning
- Apply a disinfectant with an application of biocide - this application can be sprayed or fogged.
- Apply a cleaner/biocide to remove stains and kill mold on wood surfaces.
- Apply a long-term anti-growth - this is usually applied with a high pressure airless sprayer.
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"Quality Without Compromise”
For more information call 508-294-5756
